The Polka Dot Revival
This year, the fashion industry's trends commence with a retro comeback of the infamous pattern—polka dots. Typically confined to traditional dresses, polka dots are making their way into streetwear, covering garments in an overwhelming array of circles—whether in a simple black and white pattern or a vibrant rainbow of colors. But how does this pattern connect Asia to Europe while also reaching the United States? The answer lies in fashion's interconnected history and its influence on modern media.
The History of Polka Dots
Historically, pinpointing the exact origin of this pattern is difficult, but many theories suggest it traces back to Asia. According to New York-based writer and set designer, Kiera Coffee, the concept of garment dyeing, known as Shibori dyeing, technically originates in China but has been widely adopted and predominantly used in Japan.
This technique creates white circles—evenly spaced against an indigo background—closely resembling the polka dot pattern we recognize today. Japanese peasants increasingly used Shibori dyeing on their hemp clothing because it effectively concealed tears and natural stains from dirt or sweat. As Japan's socioeconomic landscape developed (1603-1868), Shibori dyeing became associated with elevated status, symbolizing luxury and prestige. It left its mark on higher-quality fabrics, such as silk kimonos, ultimately serving as a visual indicator of social standing.
Fast forward to the 1700s, when industrialization and the Bubonic Plague haunted Europe. The year 1790, marking the invention of the sewing machine, was pivotal in reshaping the fashion industry. Not only were clothes made at rapid speeds, but so were patterns. The polka dot pattern was easy to sew due to its simplicity.
However, while polka dots served as prestige in Japan, they were viewed negatively in relation to the Bubonic Plague. During this time, a circular stain was considered a symptom of the disease, resembling a rash on the arm. Therefore, wearing a pattern that mirrored this disease was seen as a sign of uncleanliness rather than elegance. As the fear and stigma slowly faded, the once-taboo pattern reached across borders, evolving into a symbol of cultural pride in Spain. One notable example is Spain's adoption of the pattern called "lunares", or "little moons," on both traditional and modern Flamenco dresses.
@notelodigoo_ Lunares de colores!! #feriadesevilla #flamenca #lunares #coleccion2024 ♬ sonido original - NOTELODIGO
Social Revolution
As consumerism in media took over the United States in the 1920s, so did the polka dot print. It reached popularity with the help of trustee celebrities and the entertainment industry. According to Cosmopolitan, the first notable example of the print worn in the U.S. was in 1926 by Miss America winner Norma Smallwood.
Two years later, Minnie Mouse appeared wearing an adorable mini flared red and yellow polka dot skirt- an adorable image that would leave its imprint on not just infants, but to all generations. Sasha Divekar, a first-year student at AUP and Art Director of Peacock, responds when asked about polka dots, "The first thing I can think of is Minnie Mouse! I know it's childish, but her iconic skirt is something I can vividly remember. I don't know why." With its debut in 1928, Minnie Mouse embodies a playful feminine character. Her connection with polka dots set the stage for the following era of pattern exploitation, bold fashion and feminine pieces.
The fashion movement of the 1950s and 1960s, featured women wearing voluminous poodle skirts, extra cinched waists and saddle shoes. Marilyn Monroe, Twiggy, Lucille Bell and many more popularized this feminine style of glamour and what celebrity culture looked like while wearing polka dots. They shaped American society and influenced people to emulate their favorite actresses and models—a precursor to today's "influencers".
Contemporary Twist
Much like in the 1950s, the entertainment industry continues to promote this pattern. Renowned British singer and songwriter Raye comes to mind for first-year student Léa Johns when asked about polka dots: "Wait! Didn't Raye wear a polka dot dress at the Jacquemus show recently for Paris Fashion Week?"
Raye's dress resembled a traditional silhouette seen in the 1800s, yet Paris Fashion Week demonstrates how the preservation of historical roots can still evolve even with modern techniques- like how polka dots have expanded into street style.
Take a look at last year's Louis Vuitton collection in collaboration Yayoi Kusama, the Japanese artist known for her avant-garde style, which featured "Designer Dots" imprinted onto ready-to-wear accessories and bags. Interestingly, this collaboration offered a playful approach on the retro pattern, moving away from the standard feminine technique.
Polka dots, once historically connected to femininity and delicacy, now embrace all genders, socioeconomic classes and fashion styles in 2025. While in the past, the pattern was highlighted in traditional dresses and gowns, it has now found its place in modern fashion, specifically streetwear.
SAYSKY, a Copenhagan-based brand known for its sleek and bold activewear, created an entire collection dedicated to the revival of Polka Dots for the Fall/Winter 2024 season. The symmetrical black-and-white polka dot pattern is the focal point of this collection, appearing on shorts, baseball caps, windbreakers and more for both women's and men's lines.
Polka dots are a great representation of how fashion systems continuously recycle retro patterns from the past, reinventing them to fit modern times. That, in essence, is what a trend initially is—a system that is reimagined to become "wearable" while drawing reference to its historical significance. As the trend of polka dots dies down, the question remains: What pattern will rise to popularity next?
