The Hidden Truth of “Made in France” Fashion
Just a button. That is all it takes for a garment to claim the prestigious “made in France” label. While the phrase often evokes a dreamy world of artisans and couturiers meticulously crafting garments in beautiful Parisian ateliers, the reality is far less romantic. Whether luxury or fast fashion, consumers associate French-made pieces with artistry and quality. But many of these garments are merely designed in France, while the actual manufacturing and material sourcing happens thousands of kilometers away from France’s borders.
The biggest misconception in fashion today is the conflation of design and production. While many brands purposely showcase their French origins, most of their production takes place elsewhere—often in countries where labor costs are lower and environmental regulations are more lenient. "You could just have one button sewn on in France and you can claim it’s made in France on the label. So, it is misleading,” says Professor Magali An Berthon, a professor of fashion studies at The American University of Paris. This allows companies to maximize profits while benefiting from the perceived quality and luxury of a “made in France” label without having to adhere to the high costs and rigorous labor laws that genuine French manufacturing entails.
This practice is made possible because current French regulations do not fully enforce the “made in France” label. As long as a portion of the production happens in France, brands can legally label their products as “made in France,” even if most of the labor and raw materials come from abroad. “Lots of brands are just sewing on labels, buttons, zippers, or a few finishing touches to get that ‘made in France’ label,” adds Berthon.
While some brands are making efforts to reconnect to traditional French materials, like wool, with initiatives to relaunch local production, this remains the exception rather than the rule. “There is a disconnect between advocating for French-ness in your brand identity and producing in France. For example, Petit Bateau is very French in its aesthetic with its blue-and-white stripes, but most [of their] things are not made in France,” Berthon explains.
The globalized fashion production model raises serious concerns about sustainability and ethical labor practices. Aside from the negative environmental footprint of sourcing and transporting materials and goods across continents, there is the issue of low-wage workers in economically developing countries, who are often exploited and subjected to poor working conditions in under-resourced factories.
Consumers, particularly those who pay a premium for luxury items, may be shocked to learn how little of their money goes toward ethical and sustainable practices. “If they see ‘made in France,’ they’ll think it’s made in France and might even be willing to pay more for that assumption,” says Berthon.
Students studying fashion are increasingly aware of these issues too. “I would say I am aware of locations being used as part of the branding or being used by companies hoping to situate themselves within a particular market, but that is probably because I have been studying fashion and marketing for years. For most people I think it is just accepted at face value without further thought,” says Ava Sirulnick, a fashion student at The American University of Paris.
So, how can consumers avoid falling for misleading labels? The first step is education. The "made in" label never tells the whole story, but resources like Fashion Revolution can help you research brand transparency. Next, opt for brands that prioritize and publicize their sustainable practices, even if their products come with a higher price tag—it often reflects ethical production. Finally, do not be afraid to ask questions and demand more transparency. By doing so, consumers can hold brands accountable for their sourcing and manufacturing practices.
The mystique of “made in France” may still carry weight, but for those seeking genuine ethical fashion, the labels are not enough. It is time for consumers to look beyond the marketing gloss and demand greater accountability from the brands they support, because just one sewn-on button isn’t enough.
