Brazil in the Heart of Paris
Pão de queijo, coxinha, and moqueca adorn our table on a Parisian terrace. Prepared intentionally, with rich flavors that dance around on your pallet. These dishes represent a culture located thousands of kilometers away and for many, these meals are one of the strongest ties connecting them back to their home.
France and Brazil have enjoyed a fruitful friendship for the better part of the last century, with ties between the two countries being strong, both on a political and a social level. With Brazil being France’s largest immigrant group from Latin America, Paris is home to the fifth largest Brazilian immigrant population. And Brazilian influence in Paris does not go unnoticed. It's rare to spend a night out without running into a friendly group of Brazilians choosing to spend their holiday, semester or life in the vibrant city. The stories of the Brazilian immigrants in Paris are significant, showing both the heart of Brasil in Paris, but also a longing for something more.
I had the opportunity to speak to Suelen, who has been living in Paris for the past three years and working as chef de cuisine at Onda in the 4th arrondissement. Originally from Florianópolis in the state of Santa Catarina, Suelen came to Paris as a political asylee. She fled alongside her ex-husband, following Brazil’s crackdown on political dissent; fleeing to France was her only choice for survival. Suelen describes her longing for her family back in Brazil, as well as the beaches and the abundance of fresh seafood. While leaving Brazil was not her first choice, she has rebuilt her life here in Paris, and parallels the welcoming environment of Brazil to that of Paris. She is happy here, despite the lack of beaches and “southern Brazilian barbecue”, Suelen is grateful for the new beginning that France had to offer her. When asked if there was anything she wanted to clarify to the French people about Brasil she said “we don’t speak Spanish”. Despite the way in which she left Brazil, Suelen remains grounded in her pride of being a Brazilian woman. Her love for her country is evident in the food in which she served us.
The first dish that arrived to our table was a bowl of the iconic Pão de Queijo, a stretchy yet soft fried ball of cheese that, while it doesn't melt in your mouth, falls apart in a very delicate way. Pão de Queijo originated in the 1700s when agricultural workers would bake leftover tapioca in ball form, and eventually added milk and cheese into the mix.
Coxinha de Franga, or “little thing of chicken” was also present on the table, and it was my favorite. A crispy outer layer, followed by a cheesy mantel and warm minced chicken and vegetables at the core, coxinha de franga is heaven in the shape of a drumstick. This dish, associated with São Paulo, is a common snack and would pair perfectly with an afternoon apero.
Andre, a 42 year old ex-teacher, moved to France from Rio de Janeiro to learn French about two years ago. He works as a server at Brasileirinho in Paris’ 17th arrondissement. As an English professor in Brazil, he has an immense passion for languages, speaking Portuguese, Spanish, English, Italian and now French. While Andre has enjoyed his time living in France, the lack of sunlight during Paris’ winter gets him daydreaming of the abundance of sun in Rio. He told me that in Rio they say “there is a sun for each person”, making me jealous of Brazilians during this October evening. And just like Suelen, Andre is proud of his Brazilian identity, specifically the Portuguese spoken in Rio, carioca Portuguese. He takes immense pride in his language, as well as the Brazilian cuisine. And after eating at Brasileirinho, I can understand why.
I had the Moqueca de camarão, from the Bahia region, shrimp in a coconut milk curry with bell pepper and coriander, served with rice and farofa (crispy onion and fried ground yuca). The soft yet flavorful shrimp melted in my mouth, leaving behind the fresh taste of herbs. The curry mixed with rice created the perfect bite, and the farofa added a crunch element that, while not necessary, was quite pleasant. This dish tasted like it could have come out of my grandma’s kitchen, filling me up and preparing me for a food coma. The flavor palate was fresh, rich and buttery and was the perfect Sunday meal.
While Brazil is thousands of kilometers away from mainland France, many Brazilians have created their new home in Paris. While each person has a different story of how they got here, they all share the same core passion: their food. While for Andre and Suelen it might not be the same as back home, yet they are able to bring a piece of their home to France with them. For Brazilians in Paris, home is where the food is.
