Review: Les Climats, Parisian Paradise
Walking into Les Climats in the seventh arrondissement is like stepping into the mythic Paris of another era — an elegant Art Nouveau ambiance of floral-patterned walls, stained-glass windows, and charming indoor gardens. Opened in 2013, the restaurant's owners Denis Jamet and Carole Colin turned to interior decorator Bambi Sloan, famous for her work at the famed Hotel Saint James in the sixteenth arrondissement, to restore the building on rue de Lille to its original Art Nouveau splendor when it was constructed in 1905 at the height of the Belle Epoque. She succeeded magnificently.
Les Climats is laid out according to a deliberate design: four different rooms, four different ambiances. First, there's the bar where one can enjoy the pungent red wines or Burgundy raised whiskies and an appetizer menu created for this space. Second, the main restaurant, a large open area space, the Sarah Bernhardt room, is elegant yet warm with a romantic atmosphere. Third, the Jardin Secret, a garden designed is to make diners feel "loin de la fureur de la ville" — far away from the hectic city life. Filled with plants and white antique tables, it's a splendid place for lazy summer days. Lastly, the Jardin d'Hiver, a vaulted dining space with bay windows giving onto the gardens. When I went to Les Climats with three friends, we were was seated in the Jardin d'Hiver where the view onto the Jardin Secret is spectacular. The room itself is filled with mirrors, plants, bird cages and floral wallpaper, making it welcoming yet timelessly chic. The different spaces somehow all work magnificently together, giving an overall elegant and warm feel.
The Sarah Bernhardt room. Image credit: Les Climats.
The chef is Julien Boscus, who brought the restaurant its first star Michelin star in 2015. The Michelin star was not awarded just for the food and decor, however. Les Climats boasts one of the world's best wine cellars with over 1,200 wines. Prices range from 17 euros to 7,636 euros a bottle. There are 3,550 reds and 3,350 whites — a total of 12,800 bottles in the cave. Les Climats has probably the best selection of Burgundy wines that a connoisseurs will ever lay eyes on.
When you are seated, you are struck by the impeccable and courteous staff. The menu has a small selection of plates, all elaborate. We were four to dinner so we managed to order most of what the menu offered. I ordered foie gras as a starter and pigeon for the main course. Both plates were delightful. The foie gras was creamy and salted excellently with some moutarde de Crèmone on the side. The pigeon was tender and fit beautifully with the wine we selected, a Morey-Saint Denis 1er Cru 2010. For dessert I had a soufflé reglisse. The meal overall very well prepared with the touch of modernity that chef Julien Boscus brings to all his creations.
The Bar. Image credit: Les Climats.
Because we were four, I had the chance to taste almost everything on the menu, as we all ordered different entrées and four out of the five main courses. I liked the St. Jacques de Port en Bessin, or St. Jacques with creamy Basque sausage, Thai grapefruit, Granny Smith apple, sweet onion syrup and cider vinegar reduction. The consistency and well-roundedness of the plate makes it a balanced yet elaborate recipe. I also liked the pigeon, and the Barbue de l'Ile d'Yeu, catfish cooked in oven with crispy shrimps. White asparagus from the Vaucluse, black Bigorre ham, Taggiasche olives and urchin bisque. The plate has so many different textures and flavors that the experience with this plate is of an exploring nature, and the final result is excellent. The Pistache dessert is also a must.
The Jardin Secret. Image credit: Les Climats.
The prices per person is on average 100 euros. The restaurant has two set lunch menus (42 euros) and two set dinner menus (98 euros), or simply à la carte. Les Climats is open Tuesday to Saturday from 12 pm to 4:30 pm for lunch and from 7 pm to 10 pm for dinner. Les Climats offers a splendid Art Nouveau atmosphere thriving with elegance. Denis Jamet and Carole Colin's version of a Parisian dreamy paradise is a place you can't miss while visiting Paris or exploring its best cuisine.
