Fit for a Tsarina: Andrew Gn AW16
There is an austere modernity to the Palais de Tokyo's upper salon that recalls the brutalist architecture of Soviet-era Eastern Europe. This provided a fitting contrast to Andrew Gn's AW16 collection, an exploration of turn-of-the-century Russian opulence. Photographs of Russia's last royal family, in particular a photograph of the Grand Duchesses Olga and Tatiana, inspired Gn as he built a collection fit for a modern Tsarina.
Andrew Gn AW16. Image Credit: Andrew Gn.
Luxurious outerwear awash in regementary shades opened the show as models marched down the runway with militaristic precision. Although military motifs are a dime a dozen these days, rich furs, complex passementerie detailing and razor-sharp tailoring set Gn's looks apart. In a nod to the streetwear trend that has been dominating runways the past several seasons, Gn showed a khaki roll-neck sweater accented with tassels and hand-braided details that is sure to be the envy of street style stars in the coming months.
Andrew Gn AW16. Image Credit: Andrew Gn.
As the show progressed, so did the level of craftsmanship. Regalia turned regal as brocaded party dresses and beaded embroidery replaced tassels and grommets. Attention to detail and a healthy appreciation for floral motifs have always been hallmarks of the Andrew Gn brand, so when the two meet, it's a celebration of modern demi-couture.
Andrew Gn AW16. Image Credit: Andrew Gn.
The highlights of the collection were the Edwardian mantles pulled straight from a fin de siècle painting. Thrown over evening gowns and trousered looks, they were embroidered and embellished in such a way that it would not have been a stretch of the imagination to envision one astride the shoulders of one Marjorie Merriweather Post. Post was a turn of the century American socialite and fashionista whose third husband was United States Ambassador to the Soviet Union Joseph E. Davies.
Andrew Gn AW16. Image Credit: Andrew Gn.
Gn's AW16 collection elevated to luxurious heights the Eastern European folkloric theme that seemed to pervade Paris Fashion Week this season. Modern tsarinas and ambassadors alike — Jane Hartley, United States Ambassador to France and Monaco, was seated front row — are sure to be enthralled by Gn's romantic showing of military-cum-evening wear.
