Finding a Home in the Shadow of Haussmann
One of the most difficult things no one talks about when moving abroad is navigating the local housing market. I was unaware of all the intricate details about the best neighborhoods, building types, and so on. However, I did know one thing about my search: I wanted to live in what I considered “a real Parisian” apartment, the Haussmann.
Under the direction of Napoleon III, Baron Haussmann redesigned Paris in the mid-19th century. This effort, which gave rise to the wide boulevards, uniform limestone façades, and iconic architectural style now synonymous with Paris, came at a significant social cost.
Haussmann's grand avenues destroyed approximately 20,000 buildings and entire neighborhoods, many of which were home to the city's working-class and low-income residents. Often, the displaced residents found themselves compelled to relocate beyond the city center, settling in the less desirable suburbs of Paris. These areas later became part of the suburban zones outside the Périphérique, the ring road that today marks the city's border. This displacement laid the groundwork for a socio-economic divide between the affluent urban core and the less privileged suburban areas. While Haussmann’s renovations improved infrastructure and public health, critics have long pointed to the resulting urban inequalities and the social fragmentation that persists to this day.
As I looked deeper into the housing market, it became clear that these buildings were more than just a limestone façade; they were integral to the identity of Paris. Haussmann’s sweeping renovations in the 19th century reshaped the city, creating the uniform, grand boulevards that define much of central Paris today. Apartment listings proudly showcased their Haussmannian authenticity, or even just their proximity to Haussmannian neighborhoods, as a mark of prestige, suggesting that living nearby could somehow enhance one's Parisian identity.
Paris’s devotion to Haussmannian architecture is as much about preserving history as it is about maintaining a specific image of what it means to be Parisian. The fixation on the Haussmannian style—and by extension, the Parisian identity—also has broader implications. For one, it contributes to rising housing costs. For Parisians, these buildings are more than just homes; they’re symbols of class and monoculturalism.
Constantly searching for an apartment made me hypersensitive to the architecture around me, and I began to see a parallel between these modern buildings and myself. Just as these structures strive to claim a place in the Parisian skyline, I was trying to find my own footing in the city’s social landscape. Much like the Haussmannian ideal, being truly “Parisian” often feels like an unattainable goal for an outsider. Understanding the unspoken rules of Parisian etiquette, speaking French fluently, and embracing the city's rhythm can help, but there's always a sense of measuring yourself against an impossible standard. As a foreigner, there’s always an underlying question: How much of myself should I adapt to fit Parisian expectations, and how much should I hold onto my identity?
Just as modern buildings bring something new to the city’s skyline while respecting its history, I’ve come to see my American perspective as an addition to, rather than a disruption of, Parisian culture. By valuing diversity, and embracing change alongside Haussmannian masterpieces, the city could create a richer, more inclusive skyline. And here’s the thing: Paris has always been about change, even if it doesn’t like to admit it. Haussmann’s renovations were themselves controversial at the time, radically transforming the winding medieval streets into the modern capital we admire today. This history serves as a reminder that Paris's identity has undergone constant change. Tradition and transformation, along with the influence of natives and newcomers, have always shaped it.
In the end, what makes Paris timeless isn’t its ability to preserve the past but its capacity to inspire the future. For me, that inspiration lies not in trying to fit into an ideal but in finding my place alongside others who are shaping what it means to call Paris home. Just like those modern buildings, I’m learning to live with standing out.
