New Takes on the Statement Piece
Coco Chanel famously decried that before leaving the house, one should look in the mirror and remove an accessory. Of course, Mademoiselle Chanel existed in a period where women were so incredibly bogged down by form-restricting fashion, at times they could hardly walk. But in 2016 this notion of sartorial sobriety seems to be losing its touch. After nearly a decade of minimalism being the mot du jour, maximalism and the art of layering accessories now reigns supreme. Whether it’s through their sculpture-like statement pieces or through their unique takes on stackable design —minimalist pieces stacked together give birth to maximalist fantasies — jewelry designers Charlotte Chesnais, Sophie Buhai and Aurelie Bidermann are cementing fashion’s new penchant for piled-on style.
Charlotte Chesnais
Before leaving the world of prêt-a-porter to start her eponymous jewelry line, French designer Charlotte Chesnais honed her chops by working at Balenciaga during Nicolas Ghesquiere’s tenure as creative director. In 2015, Chesnais was awarded the prestigious ANDAM award and has been lauded for her designs that reconfigure some of the jewelry industry’s most classic motifs. Earrings crafted from overlapping precious metals give the impression of a piercing-filled earlobe, while bracelets extend from the wrist and wrap around the thumb. The result is a far-cry from the reserved Place Vendome diamond-aesthetic, but Chesnais has already proved she’s ready to take on new demographics. For Fall 2016, the designer will release her third collection and first fine-jewelry line featuring some of her most popular staples in jewel-encrusted options.
Image Credit: Charlotte Chesnais.
Sophie Buhai
One half of the beloved design duo Vena Cava which folded in 2014, Sophie Buhai has made a triumphant return to fashion with her fresh take on sterling silver statement jewelry. Handmade in her native Los Angeles, the line features alchemic pieces that breathe new life into the expression wearable-art. Inspired by artists like Hannah Wilke, Robert Mapplethorpe and Constantin Brancusi, the line refutes the “less is more” ideology while remaining artistically feminine. Bracelets, necklaces and earrings are offered in co-related themes – for example, the Mapplethorpe cuffs appear to be one piece when layered – but can just as easily be mixed and matched with other designs. And unlike most contemporary designers, Buhai's wares extend past the body with hair clips and vintage-inspired pins, allowing customers to reach new heights of adornment.
Image Credit: Sophie Buhai.
Aurelie Bidermann
Founded in 2004, Aurelie Bidermann's boho-luxe take on childhood staples like friendship bracelets and flower crowns have garnered a cult-following amongst fashion's elite including the editors of Vogue Paris and Beyoncé. Her two lines — fine and precious — are a colorful ode to mixing and matching. Gold dipped lace and peacock feathers, golden sheaths of wheat grains, clovers and peace signs all commingle to create a look that is fun and youthful. Bidermann, who describes her aesthetic as a clash between Place de l'Etoile and a South American jungle, has long been at the forefront of maximalist jewelry and has arguably perfected the art of layering jewelry. Nestled between her seasonal offerings is a permanent tab on her E-shop where customers can purchase "Aurelie's Stacks," groupings of bracelets and earrings handpicked and combined by the designer for a mix-and-match look that epitomizes the brand.
Image Credit: Aurelie Bidermann.
