A Taste of Texas in Paris
Beyond sharing a name, and an Eiffel Tower, Paris, Texas, and Paris, France both have a deep appreciation for good food, and, perhaps surprisingly, for great barbecue as well.
While France is celebrated as the gastronomical capital of the world, the Paris food scene has evolved beyond traditional French cuisine. The city's culinary industry has embraced fusion cooking, blending flavors from around the world, from Spanish, Asian, Lebanese, and even Texan influences.
When I stepped off the plane at Charles De Gaulle airport from Austin, Texas, last August, barbecue was the last thing I expected to find in Paris. After all, how could anyone possibly replicate something so deeply tied to Texas culture and history?
History of Barbecue
According to the Texas Historical Commission, barbecue is a long-standing Lone Star tradition, influenced by African American cooking techniques and German meat market practices. Although styles have evolved over the years, many pitmasters still use the same methods perfected over 100 years ago; a testament to simplicity and tradition.
The word barbecue is often thought to have French origins, from barbe à queue, meaning "beard to tail". In truth, it is derived from the Haitian word, barbacot, referring the use of sticks, or wooden frames to smoke or roast meat.
Texas barbecue, despite its name, has no simple definition. It is a blend of cultural traditions, perfected over time with care and community. It is more than just a meal, it is a celebration of heritage, memory and mouth-watering flavor.
In much of America, there is less appreciation for food and is treated more as a convenience than a cultural experience. Growing up in Texas though, barbecue was an exception as it was a community event. Whether it was a church picnic on Sunday or a lunch run to Terry's Blacks Barbecue in Austin, every plate had been tended to for hours on the pit, crafted with care and meant to be shared with friends and family.
It is the same deep appreciation for the craft of cooking and the way it brings people together that I have come to admire so much about France. Now I can bridge my two worlds together with an authentic barbecue restaurant in Paris.
Parisian Barbecue
To see how Paris interpreted this Texas staple, I visited Melt, a restaurant franchise in Paris that promises authentic Texas Barbecue. The moment I walked in, I was greeted by a wave of smoky aroma that instantly reminded me of home. Still, I couldn't help but wonder, could a Parisian franchise really pull of Texas barbecue?
Melt was founded by two Frenchman, Jean Ganizate and Paul Loiseleur, who stumbled upon Texan barbecue while interning in New York in 2012. A year later, they traveled to Texas and convinced Jeffrey Howard, a famous Texas pitmaster, to move to Paris and commit to this creative culinary dream.
Just like at home, we ordered at the counter before being handed a number to place on our table. Through a window into the kitchen, customers watch the chefs slice brisket and butter cornbread in real time. To my surprise, each table already had a pitcher of water and glasses waiting for us. A small but thoughtful aspect setting them apart from the typical french cafés.
I ordered a variety of plates including brisket, beef cheek, ribs, pulled pork and of course cornbread. The food didn't just meet my expectations, but exceeded them. The brisket lived up to its name, melting in my month with every bite. The cornbread was the perfect balance of sweet and salty, pairing well with any cut of meat.
If I had one critique, it would be the portion size and lack of sauce. True Texas barbecue does not need sauce, but it is nice to have the option. Melt's only offering was a tomato-based sauce, which was tasty but, unexpected.
What impressed me most was that Melt did not try to imitate a Texas roadhouse with cowboy boots and peanut shells on the floor. Instead, it crafted their own identity by serving high-quality barbecue in a modern, Parisian way. The interior was retro and clean while incorporating neon nights and paper lined trays. They were deliberate to not pretend to be Texas but to be inspired by Texas.
My Texan Take
As a proud Texan, I will be the first to admit I came in skeptical, and ready to be disappointed. However, I left both humbled and impressed. No restaurant outside of Texas can fully replicate the nostalgia, smoke-filled, communal spirit that comes with eating barbecue back home but, Melt is the closest I have found.
If you ever find yourself in Paris craving a taste of Texas, I highly recommend visiting Melt. You will not only enjoy delicious food, but also see a glimpse into how the craft of barbecue can bridge cultures, bringing a little piece of Texas to the heart of France.
