Chanel’s Youth Illusion

Page from Vogue May 2025 / Image credit: Ruby Valasek
Why Chanel’s Gen-Z front row doesn’t match the woman its collections are still designed for

Matthieu Blazy’s first Chanel Métiers d’art show in New York turned a disused subway platform into a lively runway. Models stepped out of the trains in leopard gowns, pinstripe suits and glossy coats, while the guest list looked straight out of your Instagram feed, with names such as A$AP Rocky, Ayo Edebiri, Teyana Taylor and Margaret Qualley. W Magazine called it “a new era… big on personality and characters,” and the energy of the room matched that description exactly. 

But there was one thing even the subway set couldn’t distract from: Why lean so heavily into Gen-Z aesthetics when the women actually buying Chanel are a generation older?

Chanel’s Demographic Problem

Chanel is well aware of who keeps their brand financially thriving. Its CFO, Philippe Blondiaux, made that clear in an interview reported by FashionUnited. He emphasized that Chanel’s “biggest preoccupation is to protect our customers and in particular our pre-existing customers.” These are long-time, ultra-affluent clients with established wealth, not TikTok-famous twenty-somethings. 

Digital Agency Network outlines Chanel’s main target audience as 25–45, shaped by “elegance, sophistication and legacy.” This isn’t a brand designed around experimentation or youth culture because it’s built on heritage and high price points. 

Yet Chanel still invests heavily in youth-facing visibility. BLACKPINK’s Jennie Kim is described by Vogue Singapore as “the Chanel girl of her generation” and has been a house ambassador for years. She gives Chanel cultural reach, even if most of her followers can’t afford RTW (ready-to-wear).

New York’s Guest List vs. the Clothes 

The New York show made Chanel’s youth strategy easy to spot. The front row was full of names that shape online culture. Chanel reinforces this image through its partnerships outside fashion, too. The Tribeca Film Festival announcement for its Chanel-backed program highlights how the brand supports “future creative voices.” 

But the clothes themselves spoke to a very different demographic. Le Monde described the collection as “voluminous dresses with dazzling gemstone necklaces,” and “’20s-style pinstripe suits,” crafted with the skill of the Lesage and Lemarié ateliers. These pieces are beautiful and expensive. They belong to the world of serious collectors and couture-level budgets. 

While the show looked like it belonged to Gen Z, the wardrobe was still made for someone far more established.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial)

Youth for Buzz, Tradition for Business 

Luxury analysts have mapped out this dynamic. Bain & Company predicts that by 2030, Gen Z will represent 25–30% of luxury spending and millennials 50–55%. Chanel needs to attract younger eyes now to convert them later. 

But relevance and loyalty are not the same. Walpole warns luxury brands not to build strategies “solely around Gen Z” but to keep a “core audience mindset.” Chanel appears to be following this rule exactly. They are clearly using youth for visibility while keeping their products aimed at older, wealthier clients. So, the young guests in reality weren’t there to represent the Chanel customer; they were there to amplify the brand's reach. 

Why This Matters to International Students

International students sit at the center of this marketing equation. We are global, online, and culturally aware. All of which makes us exactly the kind of demographic Chanel likes to feature in its campaigns and front rows. But we are not the ones buying €9,000 jackets… or maybe some of us are. 

What Chanel’s show reveals is how often youth culture is used for image rather than intention. Brands chase our visibility, our taste, and our influence, even when the products themselves are designed for an older and wealthier audience. It's important to remember that in luxury, relevance is often performed long before it is genuinely embodied.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @just64gb

Where Chanel Goes from Here

In New York, a young crowd watched a collection made for older clients. Matthieu Blazy brought energy and imagination to Chanel’s world and critics praised the result. 

But a larger question remains: Will Chanel eventually adjust its designs to match its youthful image, or will it continue to rely on the front row to make the brand feel young while the products stay the same?

Written by

Ruby Valasek is a writer and creative based in Paris, studying Marketing and Fashion Studies at The American University of Paris. She specializes in culture, style, and the evolving identity of young Americans abroad.