Stick and Pokes: Trend or Faux

Trends come and go, however some are more permanent than others; like tattoos. It is much easier to forget your questionable bangs from high school than the now laughable tribal tattoo blasted on your bicep. Ink trends are nothing new, from old school Americana sailor tattoos to butterfly tramp stamps, to minimal geometric designs, looks are constantly changing. So is the claim that 2015 is the year of the stick and poke tattoo a laughable headline or is there a valid trend moving towards simplicity in the often overwhelming world of body modification?

Dating back to 2000 BC, body ink has been used for an abundance of purposes. Projecting anything from social status to religious beliefs, or for beauty practices, tattoos have played significant roles throughout many eras and cultures. Although in recent history there has been significant stigma against tattoos, often seen as deviant or as unprofessional, it is undeniable that they are becoming increasingly common and accepted, even celebrated.

Clearly with tattoos being prevalent throughout much of history, there are a multitude of methods for embedding ink in skin. Bones, thorns, and other sharp objects have all been used to pierce the skin and create permanent works of art. Many of these methods are still around, but obviously have mostly been replaced by the more practical and hygienic needle.

Tattoo machines have also widely conquered the more traditional methods, as they are time efficient and offer a wide variety of thicknesses and intensities for the ink. Reigning since the late 1800's, tattoo machines have changed from handmade gadgets to incredibly complex and advanced tools; just as tattoo culture has elevated from something once done in back alley port towns to at celebrated conventions.

While tattoos can now cost well into the thousands of dollars depending on size and how coveted the artist is, there has always been the DIY culture of hand poked tattoos, often referred to as stick and pokes. What was once reserved for sailors, cell mates, and gang members, they have been having a moment both visibly on skin and on the internet. Multiple articles have been circulating the net blogosphere claiming 2015 as the year of the stick and poke. But why would a regression in technology from high class tattoo shops and realistic portraits to potentially dodgy needle and ink tats poked by your friend after one too many drinks become a trend?

Notorious fashion site Style.com published an article, claiming that "stick and pokes are the new septum piercings" late last year, disturbing many hand poked devotees and conservative parents. Evidently because a few select fashion models have sported the look, it has emerged from rebellious garage tats to runway ready. Is there something more to the practice or is it simply going to be the next basic-girl-with-feather-tattoo in a measly five years?

Speaking with multiple people whose bodies are adorned with hand poked ink, it is evident why many are choosing to downgrade on technology to upgrade their personal style.

Emma, a 25 year old from Helsinki, currently has three tattoos, two of which were done by hand. Her first was done by machine at a random tattoo shop at the ripe age of 18, and is her least favorite. The remaining two were done by one of her best friends when she began experimenting with handmade tattoos.

"Machine tattoos hurt less and are more quick so it's more pleasant, but I prefer my stick and poke ones because my really good friend [did] them both when I was 21 and the second when I was 23. For me they are more personal."

23 year old Rachelle from Paris has a wide variety of tattoos, and also states that stick and pokes are more distinctive and unique.

"I have a total of twelve tattoos, ranging from small symbols and words to pieces covering my thighs and ribs. They also range from stick and pokes on a rooftop at 5 in the morning, to amateur machine done tattoos in high school, bamboo tats from Thailand, all the way to complex pieces done by really skilled and in demand artists who work in professional shops. So, I guess you could say I've been around the block so far. I like my professional tattoos and my ghetto prison tats equally, but for different reasons. Stick and pokes are charming because they have a really unique aesthetic, although not always perfect. My good friend actually did two of mine, both done either very late at night or early morning, which admittedly is probably not the best idea. However, they look great as my friend has a lot of experience doing them. They're not perfect but that is what I like about them- they're really personal. Also, you can get really thin lines. With my bamboo tattoos- done with a needle tied on to a bamboo stick, they were done by skilled Thai artists who had been using that method for a really long time, those are great because they are representative of my travels, even if that sounds cheesy. Also they heal so much faster than machine tattoos, basically they are fine the next day! I plan on getting a few more stick and pokes, but only for small things as they take a really long time. The pain does't bother me too much but its just not practical for large pieces."

InkedMag has also praised the stick and poke due to their simplicity, but Adam, 27 from Los Angeles , remains unconvinced.

"I have too many tattoos to count, basically one full leg sleeve and most of my arms and torso are covered. All of mine have been done professionally except for two really small ones. One I did by myself because I was curious if it would be something I could do, and also how it felt to do it myself. To be honest, it looks kind of bad, a sketchy little triangle wedged between all my beautifully done tattoos. I could cover it up but I don't really care at this point. I have another small stick and poke from a friend which is okay, but again they just don't look that good. The lines aren't consistent, I don't know why people would prefer them over tattoos that are done well and are actual art."

Katie (@new_pharaoh), a multidisciplinary artist living in Paris, has been doing tattoos recreationally and professionally for over three years. What began as a fun hobby and activity to do both on herself and her friends, has become a bonafide art form, and a lucrative one at that. With countless hours of practice she has progressed from doing solely stick and pokes to machine made tattoos. However, the demand for her hand created art is still high.

"I get a surprising amount of people who prefer to have tattoos done by hand. I think because I started out doing that and this whole thing started basically by word of mouth and by me doing tattoos at parties."

Safety is obviously a concern of hers, even though the craft originated from the likes of sewing needles and pen ink.

"I only use sterile tattoo needles, and of course only use them once. I also use tattoo ink, usually black ink because I find it works best for stick and pokes over colors, but sometimes I use color too. After I started doing it more and began practicing with machines, I took a course and became a certified tattoo artist- so I know how to make sure everything is sanitary and safe."

Like many of the others, Katie too believes that hand poked tattoos are more personable.

"I initially started doing them just for fun, but honestly I really like the aesthetic of stick and pokes. Its lovely to do them on friends because in a weird way it creates a type of bond. It is so cool seeing my artwork on anybody, but especially people I care about. I have a pretty unique style of tattoos, as they're a bit more like sketches than the really smooth, realistic or traditional styles that are popular right now. Doing them by hand is really time consuming though so I usually only do them no for pretty small or simple designs."

The growing numbers of hand poked tattoos isn't just visible on the arms and ankles of bike toting hipsters or on style blogs trying to claim they reported anything they see on the runway first. Naturally, this so called trend of 2015 is all over our generation's favorite place for inspiration and self-promotion: Instagram.

Hashtags such as #stickandpoke and #handpoked show thousands of ink laden patrons showing off their body adornment, and artists promoting their work.

Marleigh, 29 year old from Long Beach, CA, has six different tattoos, four of them stick and pokes.

"Most of my stick and pokes were done by friends and are pretty simple, but my most recent one is a bit more elaborate. A friend of mine told me about an artist who only does handmade tattoos, and sent me her Instagram. I loved her work so I reached out to her via Insta and made an appointment for the next time we were in the same city. Tea (@Tealeigh) has over 21,000 followers of her tattoos and illustrations, and created Marleigh's only professionally done stick and poke.

"I'm so happy with my tattoo, the pain was definitely worth it. It took a few hours, which is much longer than it would have been by machine but the result is so delicate and perfect. I love it. I really prefer the way stick and pokes look."

While there are many who have gone under the needle and on to the internet to praise the simply done tattoos, naturally there is backlash. Directly after the aforementioned Style.com article was released, there were responding articles claiming the style ugly and unsafe. Commenters claimed that the fashion world was once again glamorizing a look from subcultures that were previously criticized by the industry; that hand done tattoos were considered ugly when on the bodies of so-called punks and gangsters, but now that they are on the bodies of waif like models they are are deemed chic. It is a classical accusation of appropriation, however in this case perhaps it can be called subcultural appropriation.

In typical internet style, a Tumblr also emerged showcasing photos of stick and pokes gone wrong, unsurprisingly titled fucknosticknpoke. All trends have adverse reactions, so these naysayers might be the ones validating the stick and poke as a trend of 2015.

Wether or not you agree with the multiple people claiming their hand poked tattoos as personal and unique, or those who state it as an ugly trend with permanent ramifications, both the flesh of your well dressed neighbor and the feed of your Instagram make it undeniable that this underground trend is on the rise; for better or for worse.