Is Streaming the New Black?
The fashion industry is known for taking risks - except with technology. However today, the digital world is forcing it to interact more and more with technological reality. Currently, brands are increasingly looking for new digital features not only to save money, but also to appear more innovative to their consumers.
Social media, among other technologies, have forced these brands to rethink how they appeal to their audience, particularly with Millennials and Gen Z. Digital presentation is prompting new ways of thinking in terms of brand identity, products, and as you will see below - their runway shows.
Models walking at the SS19 Chanel Show, Image Credit: Shutterstock/1308020365
The runway is a spectacle like no other. From Chanel's famous productions at the Grand Palais to YSL's ode to the vintage engineering technology of the Eiffel Tower for their SS20 runway show. For many years, the fashion industry's use of spectacle has been shown via the physicality of the show.
To put it simply, technology is like the cherry on top for the fashion industry. They don't need it, but it's nice to have every now and again. For instance, take Versace's cool partnership with Google during their SS2020 show. At the moment everyone talked about Versace and the nostalgia of J.Lo's iconic see-through plunge gown. However, that was it; no further partnership. It was a one and done type of deal. Even though it spurned over 1,200 online searches for "green dress".
Jennifer Lopez at the 42nd Annual Grammy Awards in Los Angeles, Image Credit/Shutterstock: 99303005
The recent outbreak of COVID-19 throughout the world has the industry scrambling to find new solutions to keep commerce afloat. While certain fashion weeks like Paris carried on business as usual, some designers decided to take a different approach. In Milan, Giorgio Armani who historically closes that city's Fashion Week, suddenly decided to stream his show in an empty theater.
One of the most important aspects of a runway show is typically the crowd, but for this presentation, there were no flashing cameras, no Anna Wintour in the front row, and no gasps or applause. The spectacle was in the silence.
According to Giorgio Armani's press release, this was a last-minute decision for the protection and health of everyone involved including the guests. Ultimately, it worked in their favor. The decision spurred intrigue and excitement, which led to many platforms such as Youtube, Grazia Magazine, and WWD streaming it live. From YouTube alone, the collection amassed a record viewership, close to 90 thousand.
Runway attendees, Image Credit: Unsplash/Brunel Johnson
Giorgio Armani was the only show in Milan Fashion Week to live stream and the only show in any of the fashion weeks to do so. Even though they were the lone wolf of FW20, it still begs the question of where fashion is going in terms of technology. Is live streaming the future?
Chavie Leiber, senior reporter for Racked, believes that it is. In her article, she states that "while some 100,000 people attended last September's shows, 2.6 million live-streamed them instead". In a way, the live streaming of fashion shows can be the best of both worlds. Brands can invite their exclusive people/VIPS, but they can also get the number they want from everyday brand followers just by live streaming. By a simple click of a button, your brand may gain numerous followers.
However, there are drawbacks. Chavie does admit that while the costs of live streaming are cheaper than a few years ago, "live-streaming with B productions costs a minimum of $6,500 and can go up to $100,000".
Models walking the Pamella Roland FW19 show during New York Fashion Week, Image Credit: Shutterstock/1309161268
This may be the reason why so many higher luxury brands decide not to stream, but instead tape the show and release them from their official platforms. In an International Vogue Business article that looked into the costs of a runway show, Fawnia Soo Hoo states that "hosting a show at New York Fashion Week can cost from $125,000 to upwards of $300,000 -- not including the price of samples". While runway shows are essential for a brand's identity, live streaming is not. For some brands, the added price is just not worth it.
Live-streaming is still relatively new, but it is inconclusive to say whether the fashion industry is ready for it. Currently, they seem to be playing catch up instead of being on the cutting edge.
